More. Kitchen & Bar – Less is More

Last weekend we taste-tested More, set in the buzzy neighborhood of Glenwood South.  More is the brethren of Taste and Oak, so my boyfriend and I had high hopes for the food.  More touts itself as a wine bar with “European-inspired small plates.”

PERMANENTLY CLOSED
more. kitchen & wine bar
116 N West St, Raleigh, NC 27603, USA
(919) 926-8415
website

When you walk into More, it feels like a restaurant you might see in a larger city than Raleigh, which is a welcome change for a date night.  It was nearly 9PM on Saturday, there were a few tables in the restaurant, but the bar tables were packed with low key groups and couples clearly also on dates.  Perfect!  The host was hip, yet friendly, and offered us a coat check for our jackets, neither of which you find in Raleigh often.

More - Mussels

More – Mussels

We took a table in the corner of the bar area as to have proper vantage of the situation.  We perused the wine menu and were debating between a couple of bottles.  The waiter sent the sommelier right over who was incredibly friendly and offered details on both the vineyards and wine makers.  Awesome.  I love a back story.  We opted for a bottle of the Feline Malbec ($48), which was out of this world rich and scrumptious.The food menu sounded tremendous and I could have ordered every single dish on the menu, it sounded so appealing.  However, our server recommended 5-6 plates to share as everything was a similarly sized small plate. Let me tell you, three plates, MAYBE four would have been more than sufficient.  The “small” plates were misnamed; they were HUGE!  More is certainly an apt name for this restaurant.

More - Duck Rilette

More – Duck Rilette

We started off with the mussels ($10). These were rich, garlicky, with bits of bacon and a broth made of IPA.  These weren’t your mama’s regular mussels mariniere – they were heavy, and there were a ton of them.  This dish would have been great for four people, not two.  The amount of mussels were overkill and we had quite a few to set aside for possible snacking later.  For the amount of mussels, just a few slices of toasted bread were provided.  We asked for a couple more slices and were brought a plateful, then gratuitously charged an extra $1.50 for the experience although it was not mentioned to us.

The second course was a special, duck rilette ($10).  This was definitely the highlight of the meal.  Creamy duck goodness topped with fresh herbs and a bit of pineapple gelatin gave the dish a refreshing lift.  Definitely order this if it’s still a special when you visit.

More - Risotto Fries

More – Risotto Fries

Third course were the risotto fries with pork ragout ($10).  I love, love, loved these.  The sauce was heavy, but a delicious compliment to the cheese dusted risotto fries.  Nothing was greasy or oily – just crunchy, creamy goodness.  My boyfriend and I each enjoyed one.  I probably could have eaten the last one myself, but forced myself to save room for the next two courses.  Also, at this point, we were already full.

Course four were the mini beef sliders with bacon aioli and provolone ($13).  This dish blew my socks off at the sister restaurant, Taste, so they were a must-try at More as well.  While they were just fine, they weren’t nearly as juicy or delicious as the ones at Taste.  Skip these.

Finally, we made it to the short rib Osso Bucco ($13).  I tried one bite out of posterity because we had ordered it.  I want to comment on the meat, but I can’t, I was too full to taste.  The polenta tasting sweet is the only thing I could recall at that point.

More - Short Rib Osso Bucco

More – Short Rib Osso Bucco

Our feast cost us a total of $105 including a bottle of fabulous wine.  The meal was enjoyable, but the recommended number of plates were just far too many considering the portion size.  Being stuffed, we still had leftovers.  I’m not usually one to love taking home leftovers, but we had so much nice food that we were inclined to take it for another meal.  Only then, at the end of the meal did we find out that More does not do to-go food, not helpful with our current plight.  Somehow, the kitchen rustled up two boxes for our four different types of food.  One box was entirely full of mussels.  The other had duck, risotto, and an entire Osso Bucco dish in one container.  We asked for a bag for our two containers, but they didn’t have those either.  Our waiter was nice enough to walk across the parking lot to Clouds Brewing and get one of their bags.  When we arrived home, it was easy to imagine that all of our food was smushed into one big, gross mess.  We threw away everything.  I hate to waste food and money, so it was a frustrating experience.  However, the food was great.  I will certainly return to More, but order only a dish at a time.  Or bring Tupperware.

More - Mini Beef Sliders

More – Mini Beef Sliders

 


This article is by Lauren Majewski.  Lauren finds herself eating her way through the Triangle via Miami, Chicago, and Columbus.  She is an avid traveler, novice chef, messy baker, and a voracious reader and writer.  Follow her adventures on Instagram @MacaronsandMayhem or at MacaronsandMayhem.com.

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